March 31, 2025
Started the day with a more fun session of home school that the boys were very into. We made ghostbuster blaster packs out of old water jugs. The boys helped but were more into making up the backstory of who they were fighting then finishing the construction. Lucky they were on the same team for this battle!
I played with them in the backyard where the tree house was their base and I was a monster/ghost. They eventually both got tossed into the pool, aka monster juice. They both very much enjoyed their “recess” from normal school. Though after they dried off we did squeeze in a bit of the normal stuff.
Lenny practiced writing his letters and Ollie wrote to his cousin Zach.
For the afternoon we were off to do a walking township tour and immersive food experience that Kayleen found on Airbnb. A township is an extremely poor community compromised of government housing and some privately owned residences. Their existence has a long history that we learned about from our guide Ndoda, but currently they are home to many non-white South Africans. A result of apartheid. The township we visited was called Langa.
Ndoda was a very kind man, likely in his 40s, and seemed to be well known throughout the areas we were walking through in the township. It was just the four of us and him which was nice so Ollie could pepper him with questions. As Ndoda was explaining the history of the Langa township and the historical figures that had been part of it Ollie was keen let him know about American historical figures such as MLK and Rosa Parks.
It felt weird taking pictures, though Ndoda said the only rule was to ask any adults permission before taking a picture they would be in. Regardless we limited our pictures.
The housing was difficult to see and then Ndoda would tell us how many people actually slept in the spaces we were standing in which was unthinkable.
Ndoda had a good explanation that most people in the community liked that the walking tour existed. He said tour groups who drive through on a bus and take pictures out of the window makes it feel like people are visiting a zoo. A tour walking through the township, talking with residents, learning the history, and spending money in the township is actually helpful. Even knowing that there were still moments it was hard to not feel uncomfortable.
The boys had very different experiences. Lenny really had no idea what was happening other then he was being forced to walk around when he wanted to be carried. He asked a few questions about garbage but the idea that his sneakers cost more then months of rent for some of the shared rooms was totally lost on him. Ollie understood more of what he was seeing and he liked Ndoda which made the questions start flowing.
Last week was the end of one of the quarters for school so all the kids had this week off, their version of a Spring break. That meant the township was filled with kids kicking soccer balls around. Ollie nervously started to play with one group of older boys with Ndoda’s help but they were much better so he decided to stop. Then a younger group was throwing an old rugby ball around and we convinced Ollie to join in by all of us also joining. The kids were very nice and happy to play with us. There was really no talking just laughing and throwing/kicking the ball around in a circle. It was the favorite part of both boys day. A few adults came by to talk passionately about South African rugby with us.
Next we went to mama Nombulelo’s house for a late lunch. She was a kind women in her 70s who cooked some traditional dishes for us. A meal of pap, chakalaka, chicken spice chicken and cabbage with spinach. The boys misheard “pap” and thought she said pepperoni which made them chuckle. Lenny thought the pap tasted cheesy and he requested seconds and thirds. Ollie tasted all of the foods but agreed the pap was his favorite.
Pap: Ground corn made into a thick paste that looked like mash potatoes
Chakalaka: Spicy South African vegetable relish, believed to have originated in the townships of Johannesburg or the surrounding gold mines
Chicken spice chicken: A blend of traditional South African spices with hints of garlic, herbs, and smoky paprika.
We dropped off Ndoda and headed back to Cape Town. We went back to Cafè Paradiso so the boys could go in the kitchen and Kayleen and I could relax. It eventually worked after Ollie stopped refusing to help Lenny in the kitchen. He just felt like being difficult and trying to mess with Lenny for some reason. Lenny cooked us a nice pizza and then it was home and straight to bed!
